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Last Updated on September 5, 2024 by Paul Clayton
Table of Contents
Best Weight Distribution Hitch Buying Guide
Weight distribution hitches, often a critical component in towing systems, ensure the load weight is balanced and distributed evenly across the vehicle’s wheels. This mechanism is vital in providing stability and control while towing heavy loads.
- Function: Weight distribution hitch spreads the load for level towing.
- Components: Receiver hitch, spring bars, chains, sway control.
- Usage: Prevents sagging and improves steering and braking control.
- Types: Round bar for light loads, trunnion for heavy.
- Selection: Consider Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR).
- Benefits: Enhanced towing safety and improved fuel efficiency.
I’m here to discuss one of the most critical components of a trailer setup: the weight-distributing hitch.
Usually, when you buy a travel trailer, the sales agent also mentions your need for a weight-distributing hitch, saying it is effective for sway control.
But if you’re not familiar with the technical aspects of RVing, you either dismiss his pitch, thinking it’s just another way to oversell their products, or you’ll lap it up even without much understanding.
In this instance, however, you should take his advice and get one. But then you must first know what a weight-distributing hitch is.
Maybe you’ve heard about the nerve-wracking experiences of several trailer owners, during which their trailers started swaying from left to right while driving. To avoid this scenario, you need to manage your trailer’s weight distribution, especially if it is heavy with a load.
Commonly referred to as the trailer equalizer, a weight-distributing hitch assists in distributing the downward forces of your trailer, which is equal to the tongue weight, across the axles of both your towing vehicle and the trailer.
Without it, you will possibly encounter problems controlling your vehicle.
If your trailer has a lot of tongue weight relative to its overall weight, it can cause your hitch to dive.
That means the front side of your trailer will be brought to the ground, and the front of your towing car will flip upwards. Having a light tongue weight is not good, as it will flail your trailer.
A weight-distributing hitch helps avert such compromising situations by managing your vehicle’s steering and braking functions, keeping them safe and under control.
It’s one of a few camper supplies I consider a must-have if you want to remain safe on the roads.
In this article, I would like to introduce you to this vital part of a trailer and provide you with different options on the market, at least one of which will suit your vehicle and your needs.
Top Overall Weight Distribution Hitch
Andersen ‘No-Sway’ Weight Distributing Hitch
Advantages:
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Lightweight construction
The Andersen ‘No-Sway’ weight-distributing hitch does not use solid bars for sway control. Instead, it has chains connecting to brackets, weighing only 60 pounds.
Even though it’s lightweight, it can accommodate a high gross trailer weight of up to 14,000 pounds and a tongue weight of 1,400 pounds. Impressively, its performance at these weights is excellent.
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Quiet and grease-free
This type of hitch does not have a squeaking noise, which can be distracting. You’ll never have to worry about having a bounce effect while in use.
Its accurate motion system reduces this. As such, it is as quiet as a mouse and makes for a smooth ride. Amazingly, there is no need to lubricate the hitch, so there are no more accidental grease stains on your shirt to agonize over.
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No-fuss setup and highly adjustable
The Andersen ‘No-Sway’ is easy to install, thanks to its simple chain design. It saves a lot of hassle compared to dealing with grease-filled bars.
Moreover, you can skip the weight-distributing hitch and use the ball mount with it instead. This way, you won’t require an additional towing component for lighter loads.
I cannot find any disadvantage of this product. It is ideal for most travel trailers, providing a no-hassle approach to sway control.
Top Conventional Weight Distribution Hitch
Equal-i-zer Weight Distributing Hitch
Advantages:
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No disconnection is needed (for leveled ground)
It is common for other weight-distributing hitches with the typical spring design with brackets to require their detachment when driving in reverse or during inclement weather.
Not for this hitch. However, there are a few exceptions, one of which is when backing up involves two different level positions. For example, you must disconnect when moving backward from an even plane on an incline.
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Trunnion spring arms and the anti-sway mechanism
The Trunnion type of spring arms serves several purposes. First, they give more ground clearance than spring arms with a round bar. They also aid in sway control, using a 4-point system to provide the highest resistance to swinging.
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Classic design
This hitch best represents the traditional, time-tested spring bar. The company has been manufacturing this product for many decades, which proves that its spring bar hitches, such as the Equal-i-zer, have towed countless travel trailers since.
Disadvantages:
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Emits noise
The noise levels, consisting of creaks and grinds, are brought about by the metal friction from the hitch’s L brackets and spring arms when you make turns or drive through road bumps.
Although the company recommends getting a sway bracket jacket, which has its setbacks, unfortunately, the clanking sound is just something you must accept for this type of hitch.
The contact area cannot be lubricated with grease as the anti-sway capabilities will be affected.
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Grease maintenance
Lubricant must be applied to the hitch sockets once every season. This will provide protection and maintain smooth functionality.
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Confusing setup and required storage
Installing the Equal-i-zer hitch can be pretty confusing. Before determining the appropriate weight distribution framework, you need to test several combinations of L brackets and washers that work with the hitch head.
Figuring this out is a bit time-consuming. Springs bars must also be stored when the trailer is not in use.
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Hitch ball not included.
Even when you can get this hitch with a kit, you will still have to buy a separate hitch ball, making sure to pick the right size for your trailer. This would be a 2-inch or slightly more significant ball, usually stamped on your trailer’s coupler.
Top Budget-Friendly Weight Distribution Hitch
Fastway e2 Weight Distributing Hitch
Advantages:
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Affordability
Part of the company’s budget weight distribution line, the Fastway e2 is quite affordable with its round bar spring arms and 2-point sway control.
However, this comes with less ground clearance. You can opt for trunnion arms that provide more ground length because their attachment doesn’t drop as much by design.
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No additional sway controls are needed.
Compared to a basic ball mount with zero anti-sway properties, this type of hitch offers a simple weight distribution mechanism that is enough to prevent your trailer from dangerous swinging.
Like its more expensive option, the Equal-i-zer, you can back up and brave lousy weather without disconnecting it from the tow vehicle.
Disadvantages:
The Fastway e2 has setbacks in the Equal-i-zer, such as distracting noises, the need to purchase a separate hitch ball, bar storage for inactivity, and confusing installation procedures.
Aside from that, this being a cheaper option, expect it to have limited features, including the 2-point sway control.
But what’s important is that it delivers the essential functions a trailer can get by, which any budget-conscious buyer will appreciate.
Other Weight Distribution Hitches That Merit Consideration: Hensley Hitch by Hensley Manufacturing
If you can spend more on a product that promises to prevent swaying at all costs, you should check out the Hensley hitch.
You may have noticed that my top picks comprised hitches that relied on friction to mitigate the swaying action. In other words, there will still be some swaying, but less dangerously so.
So this Hensley hitch will cost you an arm and a leg at around two thousand five hundred Benjamins! It is expensive but has its share of “rich” believers.
Even Marshall of Camp Addict, a member of the Hensley Club that caters to owners of lighter trailers with a maximum gross weight of 6000 pounds, is sold by its price and features.
The Hensley hitch is as heavy as it is pricey. In effect, this extra weight adds to the tongue weight, which should be considered before buying this hitch, especially for those who don’t want additional weight on their trailer as it is.
Hensley Manufacturing was the original maker of this hitch, hence its eponymous name. However, another company, Pro Pride Inc., makes the same type of hitch, only better, or so they claim.
Both are premium hitch manufacturers, each with a similar product quality, so the jury is still out on which is better.
Do all Travel Trailers Require a Weight Distributing Hitch?
No, but most travel trailers do. Here’s why:
If your trailer generally looks at a lighter load, you can manage it with a weight-carrying hitch.
Unless you are consistent with this type of usage, a weight-distributing hitch seems a good default option because you never know when you will need to carry more.
As a rule of thumb, if the gross weight of your trailer is equal to or more than half of the weight of your towing vehicle, without a doubt, you’ll need a weight-distributing hitch.
In any case, the law would require anyone whose trailer weights reach a certain number to have a weight distribution setup. Moreover, trailer and towing vehicle pairings automatically require this type of hitch.
You must note that a weight-distributing hitch is not only to control a dangerously flailing trailer or towing vehicle but also to make handling the driver much more manageable.
Imagine if you are constantly fighting off strong winds to prevent your trailer from swaying, giving it all your might as you navigate your way to your destination. This can be physically taxing, not to mention being stressful and alarming for everybody riding the vehicle.
Aside from windy atmospheres, big trucks, and downhill paths can also cause your trailer to veer off from its otherwise steady path, that is, when you don’t have a weight-distributing hitch in place.
Another scary scenario would be the rear side of your towing vehicle dropping so low that its front side, where the driver is, is practically raised from the ground.
You lose grip on your brakes and maneuverability, leading to hazardous consequences. A weight-distributing hitch will maintain the balance between your vehicle’s front and rear axles, keeping it level and stable.
Then, there are general requirements of tow vehicles for specific gross trailer weights (GTW), which comprise the total weight, including contents, fuel, and everything inside.
Car manufacturers, such as Toyota, stipulate a weight-distributing hitch for trailers with a GTW of 5000 pounds. The Chevrolet Silverado 1500 also entails this hitch type for a heavier tongue weight.
It’s crucial to always refer to the vehicle manual when planning to use a travel trailer to avoid untoward incidents.
The Different Weight Distributing Hitches Available
Below is a quick reference of the top choices for different hitches that handle your trailer’s weight distribution system:
Top overall weight distributing hitch: Andersen ‘No-Sway’ weight distributing hitch
- It uses a chain mechanism and urethane spring
Top conventional weight distributing hitch: Equal-i-zer weight distributing hitch
- It uses a spring arm mechanism
Top budget-friendly weight-distributing hitch: Fastway e2 weight-distributing hitch
- It uses a spring arm mechanism.
When you invest in a weight-distributing hitch, it’s always safe to go for the one that provides sway control. Mind you; not all hitches are equipped with an anti-sway mechanism.
This will make your driving more relaxed. Driving would otherwise be precarious if your trailer is swaying from side to side on the road, compromising the vehicle, its occupants, and the trailer itself.
Just like anything, there are various options for weight-distributing hitches. Many companies will promise you the moon and the stars, saying their product is a better option than the competition.
I’ve picked the top 3 mentioned above based on their sway control capabilities, one of the most important considerations when buying a weight-distributing hitch. As such, I did not include a product without this feature.
However, I excluded those hitches that use bars as sway control because, in my opinion, they do not constitute an actual mechanism for sway control.
Based on the sequence of my picks, I placed the Andersen ‘No-Sway’ weight-distributing hitch in the topmost spot simply because it is the best of them all.
Unlike the traditional spring arms in most weight-distributing hitches, it uses a different weight distribution principle.
As you read, you will learn more about our best weight-distributing hitches, including the runner-ups. This way, you’ll know which one suits your trailer best.
Accessories For Your Trailer Hitch
The hitch is not the be-all and end-all of your trailer’s weight distribution systems. As they say, it takes a village to make it all work, with the help of supplemental components or accessories that level up your trailer use.
Don’t get me wrong; your hitch may be sufficient for your towing needs. These add-on conveniences are not mandatory at all. However, they can complement your trailer in more ways than one.
Hitch Locks
Make your trailer more secure by inserting a hitch lock into a hole on the side of the receiver tube. This would hold the ball mount in place. Without a layer of security, your hitch can usually slide out from its mounting position.
Placing a hitch lock with a pin prevents theft of your entire hitch, like putting a padlock on your gate to deter unauthorized entry.
This may not be a surefire way to avoid stealing your hitch, but it will surely make it difficult for the thief to unlock it and take the item. This can be worth buying to give you a little peace of mind.
Hitch Ball Lube
Dust particles and dirt can get to the mobile parts of your trailer, especially on the portion of the coupler and hitch ball. And besides, the movements themselves during turns and driving over rough terrain can eventually cause friction and breakage.
Keeping these components lubricated before a long road trip can maintain smooth joints and axles. Most weight-distributing hitches call for lubrication, except the Andersen No-Sway weight-distributing hitch, another reason it is our top choice.
Meanwhile, grease also prevents rusting, so if your hitch requires it, apply it regularly to the winch, trailer bearings, coupler, or anything else that moves during operation.
Hitch Stabilizer
Often, the nut slides easily into the receiver tube of your trailer hitch. A hitch stabilizer tightens the bolt through the nut and inserts, pulling the ball mount towards the receiver part, which secures it in its location.
Without a hitch stabilizer, the loose fit in the receiver will wear down, affecting your shank and, worse, producing a clanking sound.
Not only does the noise diminish, but this anti-rattling tool also prolongs the lifespan of your hitch and its related components.
The StowAway Hitch Tightener, made of industrial stainless steel, prevents wobble and locks your nuts.
Safety Chain Hanger
Safety chains are connected to the tow vehicle to guide your trailer and maintain control if your coupler fails. Often, these hang low from their position, getting dragged on the road at every turn. To avoid this, a safety chain hanger is recommended.
This seemingly unimportant piece, with a crucial benefit, is made of plastic that supports your safety chains. It comes in 2 different sizes that fit a Class 3 or 5 hitches.
You might wonder if this hanger does not interfere with the safety chains. After all, these chains must not be fastened to any hitch component that does not have loops or holes; otherwise, a mishap can occur.
The hanger will not hampered the chains during actual use; it would be released if the safety chains were stretched.
Many RV owners realize the usefulness of the safety chain hanger that you will find in numerous trailers nowadays.
EZ Store Hitch
Remember that some weight-distributing hitches require their bars to be stored when unused. Instead of being squeezed inside your storage, which can be messy with all its greasy material, you can get an Ez Store hitch to serve this purpose.
The EZ store hitch is your dedicated storage space that can be installed clamp-style on the front side of your trailer for your weight-distributing hitch.
It can accommodate any weight-distributing hitch bar, whether the Trunnion type, flat, round, Blue Ox, or other types. You can save storage in your trailer by simply sliding your spring bars onto the tray and using a hitch pin to lock it securely.
Please note that you can also stow your weight-distributing hitch in the EZ Store Hitch when your trailer is not attached. This way, you can always avoid falling victim to a witch thief.
Hitchgrip Carrying Tool
No more breaking your back; the Hitchgrip makes it easy to install, detach, and carry your weight-distributing hitch.
Made with heavy-duty resin, it is lightweight and catered to work with any hitch with more than 2 inches of hitch balls and standard shanks. It is designed to distribute the weight of your hitchload for better handling.
The Hitchgrip can slide your ball mount in and out of your hitch receiver. It not only makes lifting your hitch practically a breeze, but you also don’t have to get dirty by carrying the greasy hitch with your bare hands.
It makes for a mess-free activity for an otherwise cumbersome task.
Coupler Locks
Locking mechanisms are essential to RVing because unscrupulous individuals will always target valuable trailer components, especially those that are not secure.
A trailer that’s parked outside is vulnerable to such occurrences. And sometimes, a pin and a latch are insufficient to guarantee your trailer’s security.
Several coupler locks are sold, but most can be broken by smashing them with a crowbar or sawing. While this could be a luxury, the Coupler Vault Pro is super durable and can fit two 2-inch and two 5/16-inch couplers.
Even with an undone latch, the adjustable ball that fits into the socket provides an extra layer of security. Furthermore, the interlocking plates make breaking the lock difficult for any thief.
Can You Always Count on Your Dealer?
Many of us buy things such as a travel trailer, yet we don’t have enough understanding of the technical aspects, which would have better equipped us by knowing the right specs to buy.
We often rely on our trailer sales agent to decide when buying weight-distributing hitches.
You’d probably think these salespeople care about us enough, and whatever they say must be good. After all, they are well-versed about the products they sell. Is that safe to say so? Unfortunately, this is not the case for many people.
I must say, though, that there are still competent travel trailer dealers who know their stuff and will not hesitate to help a customer get his money’s worth.
With any advice they give, however, you should always take it with a grain of salt and exercise due diligence by doing your research. Several reviews offer valuable info on the internet, which you can glean from to make an informed decision.
Weight-distributing hitches may initially seem Greek to you. Even the sales agent trying to upsell you on all the bells and whistles your trailer will benefit from doesn’t know a jack about the product.
Not So Pleasant Experience
My laziness got the better of me when I bought a Fastway E2 hitch from the dealer of my trailer. I completely trusted my sales agent, thinking he was the right person to give purchase suggestions to buyers like me.
Since I bought the travel trailer from their dealership, they must know my trailer’s gross and tongue weight and how to take care of the installation. Little did I know that I will be screwed big time.
As you know, the Fastway brand of weight-distributing hitches suit trailers have gross weights from 4500 lbs up to 10000 lbs.
As such, you should get a hitch rating equivalent to your trailer’s actual load when in use, not only its max weight listed in the trailer’s manual.
Based on my usage, my trailer usually weighs less than 5000 pounds. My agent gave me a hitch rating of ten thousand pounds, which is overkill.
As a result, towing the trailer was rough, and I had to contend with the big spring arms that came with that hitch rating.
To make matters worse, the brackets were installed incorrectly, creating a substantial space between the hitch frame and bracket bolt.
This gap was a disaster waiting to happen because it can cause the brackets to cave in as the bolts are tightened according to their torque.
This is exactly what came out of my trailer’s brackets after some time. Their dip has become distorted. I ended up replacing them with new ones, as recommended by a fellow trailer owner who had a similar experience using the Fastway e2.
In my case, the Fastway e2 brackets are dangerously drooping from their position. I would say, though, that it has more to do with a design flaw than an improper installation. Given how it was set up on my trailer, there’s not much allowance for ground clearance.
As a result, the brackets always touched the road when my trailer had to take a dip, say, joining the road from a gasoline station’s elevated ground. This process also collected a lot of ground dirt.
As such, it dented the brackets whenever I towed my trailer. All that just because I carelessly let a dealer take over my better judgment and blindly accepted the erroneous installation of the weight-distributing hitch on my trailer.
In hindsight, all the problems I encountered then would have been averted if I’d known about the Andersen No-Sway weight-distributing hitch sooner.
I’ve been raving about it from the start because I had it installed on my RV many months ago. I experienced how durable and efficient it was at handling my trailer, and I haven’t looked back since.
Before I finally found the Andersen No-sway hitch, I had my Fastway e2 hitch fixed. It took considerable time to get it right, referring to the manual’s procedures.
At that point, I used a new set of brackets, as the ones in place were no longer suitable. Consequently, the spring bars provided more ground clearance.
The trailer was more level, unlike before, when the brackets always kissed the ground as they passed.
Despite the marked improvement, I felt it could still do better now that there is a nice gap between the brackets and the ground, especially when I discovered how tedious connecting and disconnecting the hitch was.
There were times when the L brackets would loosen up, causing the bar to detach from the brackets. This would happen regularly; as I said, it all comes down to the product design.
Now that I’m using the Andersen hitch, I’ve had none of these problems, and this type of hitch is highly recommended to anyone with a travel trailer.
More on Weight Distribution Hitches
You must know that weight-distributing hitches are not exclusive to typical travel trailers only, they apply to any trailer that can be towed such as tiny houses, boat trailers, or even horse trailers.
A car, or any vehicle on its own, will not require a hitch, given that it’s already designed to distribute weight evenly.
Since you are connecting a trailer whose motion will depend on your motor vehicle, a weight-distributing hitch is essential to distribute the tongue weight from the axles of both the trailer and the tow vehicle.
Without this weight distribution system, your towing vehicle’s steering function and braking capabilities will be adversely affected.
In the first photo above, you can see how your trailer drops down on its front side while your towing vehicle is lowered on its rear.
In the second photo, you will see how leveled your tow vehicle and trailer are parallel to the ground, with a weight-distributing hitch in place.
When there is no hitch to spread the weight, your tow vehicle’s front axles are raised, losing touch with the ground beneath. This will compromise any steering and braking action, which can lead to catastrophic repercussions.
When you step on the brakes, it takes more distance before it takes effect, which can cause you to lose control of the steering wheel.
Imagine what would happen if your trailer was loaded with cargo and dropped in the middle of the highway. Quite terrifying, is it?
The video below shows you the critical role of weight-distributing hitches in maintaining your vehicle’s braking and handling.
This video has been included to clarify the topic. Credit goes to AustralianCaravanRV
How Do You Choose the Appropriate Rating for Your Weight Distributing Hitch?
When you decide on a weight distribution system for your travel trailer, you follow two weight ratings: the gross trailer weight and the tongue weight.
Gross trailer weight or GTW pertains to the total weight of your trailer, including the cargo. You can determine the GTW by using a vehicle scale.
Tongue weight, on the other hand, is comprised of 10 up to 15 percent of your trailer’s GTW plus the rear cargo weight of your tow vehicle. This is a determining factor for your weight-distributing hitch.
If you choose to get a hitch that is rated too high, you will experience a rougher and bouncier ride. This can also cause your hitch parts to wear out in advance. Simply put, an increased rating is directly proportional to the weight of your trailer.
You will also have to contend with the heavy weight of the spring bar-type of hitches when you don’t have to.
If you use a lower rating than what suits your vehicle, there will be no proper weight distribution, making your hitch practically useless.
When you want a more straightforward setup, I suggest going for the Andersen weight-distributing hitch. Each kit has a hitch ball and a receiver that can suit different ratings. Plus, it uses chains instead of spring bars, which can be challenging.
Lift Brackets and Spring Arms
Generally, spring arms are used with a weight-distributing hitch to spread the tongue weight evenly by moving some of it to the axle on the front of your tow vehicle.
While chains are also used, I will focus on the lift brackets instead because they have an inherent anti-sway functionality that is preferred.
Lift brackets are mounted on your trailer’s frame, which holds the spring bars. Traditional ones have a snap-up design where the number of chain links affects the tension between each spring bar.
There’s also a blue ox type of rotating latch bracket, which uses a spinning mechanism on the bracket to tighten the chain.
Trunnion Spring Arms
For this type, the bars are inserted in the weight distribution head from the back, which makes for a streamlined design.
These are not precisely more effective in terms of weight distribution. However, it provides better ground clearance. These square-shaped arms and the trunnion hitch kit will be more expensive than the round bar type.
Round Bars
These attachments slide into the head while clipped to hold it in place. A slight curve limits its ground clearance, so this should be considered when buying a hitch, especially if you already have a low trailer.
Below is a checklist of towing components you need (aside from the tow vehicle and trailer, of course) regardless if you have a weight-distributing hitch or not.
- Weight distribution kit
This may come with a trailer hitch, ensuring the load and passengers are safe and secure in the trailer.
- Hitch ball
The size is essential because it must connect with the coupler. The hitch ball must be lightly greased, and the coupler must be wholly locked.
- Coupler
This is part of the frame that should match the tongue’s weight. Often, it has holes for bolts to be inserted.
- Safety chains
These chains safely guide your trailer and provide control upon reaching a stopping point.
- Wire harness
This connects to your tow vehicle’s electrical system, which is responsible for your lights and brakes. A receptacle houses the cable plug, interconnecting the trailer and the dolly.
Five Classes of Hitches
Hitch receivers vary in terms of the weight they can accommodate. They come in five different classes, starting from 1 to 5. You will find the class your vehicle belongs to in your owner’s manual.
Class 1
- GTW: up to 2000 pounds
- TW capacity: 200 pounds
- Type of vehicle: sedans and crossover vehicles
- Towing for: hitch attaches to the bumper or frame of light boats and trailers, motorcycles
- Square receiver opening: 1 ¼ inch
Note: Using a higher class drawbar does not affect towing capacity
Class 2
- GTW: 2001 to 3500 pounds
- TW capacity: 201 to 350 pounds
- Type of vehicle: midsize sedans, small vans, and trucks
- Towing for: hitch attaches to the bumper or frame of snowmobiles, small campers, and medium-sized boats
- Square receiver opening: 1 ¼ inch
Note: Using a higher class drawbar does not affect towing capacity
Class 3
- GTW: 3501 to 6000 pounds
- TW capacity: 351 to 600 pounds
- Type of vehicle: SUVs, vans, pickup
- Towing for: hitch attaches to the frame of boats, campers, utility trailers
- Square receiver opening: 2 inches
Note: A hitch receiver can stretch maximum weight
Class 4
- GTW: 6001 to 10000 pounds
- TW capacity: 601 to 1000 pounds
- Type of vehicle: pickup trucks, SUVs
- Towing for: hitch attaches to the frame of large boats and campers
- Square receiver opening: 2.5 inches
Note: Ball mount and hitch ball must be accordingly rated; a hitch receiver can stretch maximum weight
Class 5
- GTW: above 10000 pounds
- TW capacity: above 1000 pounds
- Type of vehicle: heavy trucks
- Towing for: hitch attaches to the frame of large boats, campers, and trailers
- Square receiver opening: 2.5 inches
Note: Ball mount and hitch ball must be accordingly rated; a hitch receiver can stretch maximum weight
Given the low weight, vehicles classified under 1 and 2 don’t usually require a weight-distributing hitch. However, those in the 3 to 5 classes should have a weight-distributing hitch.
It would help to always refer to your owner’s manual to know your weight distribution requirements.
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating
So, is your car capable of hauling that trailer? Talk about a weighty issue. Yes, it all boils down to the weights your vehicle can handle, plus a few factors.
Your car can tow an RV depending on its Gross Vehicle Weight Rating, or GVWR. This is the highest weight your vehicle can tow, but you would usually like to go only at about eighty percent of that figure.
For example, if your pickup truck has a GVWR of 10,000 pounds, you’ll get a trailer with a GTW of 8,000 pounds.
These specs are usually visible in your manual under the towing capacity section. You can also check the manufacturer’s website for these details.
Going over the limit is never a good idea. Doing this will stress your car’s engine, brakes, and transmission.
Smaller cars may be unable to tow for apparent reasons, but you can always check the corresponding towing capacity (if any).
How to Get The Weight of Your Trailer
A newly bought trailer will have its weight versus an actual load that needs to be factored in to be towed by your vehicle. This additional load may include your food, RV appliances, and passengers.
It’s, therefore, essential to know how much your trailer weighs, including the cargo, which is the gross trailer weight.
Knowing how much your trailer weighs is vital so you don’t go overboard and can be assured that your vehicle can tow it safely.
With that information, you must also know your weight-distributing hitch rating. You can’t just buy any weight-distributing hitch, as it should correspond to the hitch rating of your trailer.
When planning a trip, you will bring all sorts of cargo, such as water, propane, and perhaps loads of food and clothes. All these should yield accurate weight measurements before getting an applicable weight-distributing hitch.
You don’t want to exaggerate your ratings, as your ride will be rougher. And you would also avoid getting a lower rating for your hitch. Aside from the gross trailer weight, it would help if you also considered the tongue weight.
If you consider it so simplistically, you may wonder if there is a ginormous weighing scale you can place your heavy trailer on to determine its weight.
You can rest easy because there are weighbridges or truck scales at highway stops, which you can use to weigh your RV for a fee.
You need to know two weights: tongue weight and gross trailer weight.
Tongue Weight
A travel trailer’s tongue weight is the weight of the trailer when fully loaded. This exerts a downward force on your vehicle’s hitch ball.
For RV experts, the tongue weight is the lever, where the axle acts as a fulcrum. A proper tongue weight affects how a trailer turns and adjusts to different road conditions without issue.
You won’t have a swaying trailer if your tongue weight is balanced out. If it’s lighter, the weight will shift behind the axle. And if it is heavier, it will shift ahead of it.
There are three other ways to get your trailer’s tongue weight besides a commercial scale. You can use a scale specifically for this purpose. This is a compact device that you can slide underneath your trailer’s tongue jack.
You can also resort to a bathroom scale, which is a little complicated. It will also involve a brick, pipes, lumber, and some calculations. Then, there’s a weigh-safe 2-ball mount with a built-in scale.
This is much easier than having your trailer be physically weighed using a weighbridge because you can instantly get the tongue weight values when hooked up to any trailer.
However, a weighbridge or commercial scale will provide you with the tongue weight of your trailer, its gross weight, and the gross combined vehicle weight or GCVW. The GCVW is the weight of both your trailer and your towing vehicle.
It would help if you remembered that when you weigh your trailer, it should be loaded according to its regular cargo. This will provide you with an accurate measurement of your trailer weight. Apply this to your tow vehicle and include passengers if needed.
Using a Commercial Scale
When you need to determine only your vehicle’s tongue weight, you will typically require two weigh-ins: one for the GCVW or combined weight of your trailer and tow vehicle and the other for the car alone.
You must make an appointment with the establishment before taking your vehicle and trailer there. Advise them that you’ll need two weigh-ins, and consider the second a re-weighing transaction. This will ensure a more cost-effective rate.
Here’s what to do:
Pack your trailer like you would for your usual road trips. You may load it with camping gear, food, sleeping bags, and other items you would typically bring.
Drive your trailer and tow vehicle to the weighing scale, ensuring the tow vehicle’s axles are within the front weighing pad while the trailer’s axles are set on another.
When you receive your weight printouts, you will find two weight amounts. You will then note the tow vehicle’s weight, which we will refer to as weight A.
Step out of the scale and disconnect your travel trailer. With just the tow vehicle, proceed to the weighing scale again and position it within the pad. This will be your re-weigh transaction, and the printout’s value will serve as weight B.
Simple subtraction of the two weight values will give you your tongue weight: no complicated computations, just basic math.
Weight Distributing Hitch and your Trailer’s Tongue Weight
After we have learned about getting the tongue weight measurement via a commercial scale and how they are among the crucial factors in towing your trailer, it’s time to relate it to using a weight distributing hitches.
When considering a weight distribution system, you should note the weight of the load you will tow.
For instance, if your weight distributing hitch is rated for 1000 pounds of tongue weight capacity, yet your actual value is only 300 pounds, plus the 50 pounds of cargo in your towing car, you are about 650 pounds off your rating.
Your weight distribution can be very arbitrary and, therefore, precarious.
So now you need to get the tongue weight of your trailer. This time, you’ll need a third value after two weigh-ins for your vehicle tongue and gross weight. You can log the values on a Google spreadsheet and compute the tongue weight of your trailer.
For the third weighing, you can tag it as a re-weigh, which costs less than a separate weighing activity.
Position your vehicle with the connected trailer, including the weight distribution system in place. Your axles must correspond to their weigh pads as they require individual measurements.
There will be three weight outputs on your weigh-in printout.
While still maintaining the position on the weighbridge, you have to detach the weight distribution mechanism. Then, set this as a re-weigh, and you will get another set of 3 weight values again.
Step off the scale and disconnect your travel trailer from your car. Bring your towing vehicle back to the commercial scale, and follow where the axles should correspond to which weighing pad. This, being a re-weigh, will result in you receiving two weight values on your printout.
Counting all your weighing transactions, you should have three printouts. Note which ones correspond to a type of weigh-in, whether for the combined trailer and vehicles with a weight distribution system, etc.
Encode all the values you have collected during your weigh-ins in your spreadsheet. In other words, you will subtract your tow vehicle weight from the combined weight of your vehicle and trailer. The answer will be the tongue weight of your trailer.
Add the trailer’s tongue weight to the weight of your trailer, vehicle, and weight distribution system. The result becomes the tongue weight of your weight distribution.
To determine if you have the appropriate weight-distributing hitch, check the following:
- The weight of your tow vehicle’s front axle (without trailer)
- The weight of your tow vehicle’s front axle (with trailer and weight-distributing hitch)
The values between the above weights should not be too far apart. It will help if you remember that your weight-distributing hitch should not add more weight force to your front axle and should be comparable to the vehicle’s use without it.
In other words, the front axle should weigh about the same with or without a hitch; otherwise, you are defeating the purpose of spreading the weight evenly.
How to Use the Bathroom Scale to Get the Tongue Weight
For lighter trailers, you can use your home weighing scale plus an ordinary box to determine their tongue weight.
You just have to put the trailer’s coupler (at loaded capacity) on the weighing scale and observe the usual towing height by placing a cinder block underneath.
If you need to use this makeshift method to get the tongue weight of heavy trailers, these are the guidelines:
- Gather your home weighing scale, a brick or cinder block the same height as the scale, two steel pipes, and a 4-foot wooden slab.
- Set up by placing your weighing scale on one side and brick on the other.
- Place one pipe on top of the scale and another on the brick.
- Put the wooden piece over the pipes and check if they are leveled.
- Position the trailer tongue a foot away from the brick supporting the pipe.
- Multiply the weighing scale value by the distance of the two pipes.
As a sample computation, let’s say the pipe’s distance on the scale from the trailer tongue is 2 feet. On the other hand, the distance is 1 foot from the pipe above the brick towards the tongue.
So if the scale reads 300 pounds, multiplied by the added distances, which are equivalent to 3 feet, then the tongue weight is 900 pounds.
This method of getting a heavy trailer’s tongue weight without placing the whole thing on the digital scale, which would have broken it easily with its massive weight, is very ingenious.
And the cost of this undertaking, provided you have the materials already at home, is zero.
How to use the Tongue Weight Scale
If you don’t want to bother with a DIY home weighing scale method, you can probably consider getting a tongue weight scale, which is a bit expensive.
This type can usually accommodate a maximum tongue weight of 2,000 pounds, enough to accommodate heavy travel trailers weighing up to 20,000 pounds.
To operate, position the tongue weight scale beneath your trailer tongue jack while it is still connected to your towing vehicle. Place the trailer on chocks and disconnect it from your car. Voila, your gauge will show you the tongue weight of your towing vehicle.
When your trailer is not leveled when attached to the vehicle, the hitch should be adjusted to keep both trailer and vehicle on an even plane, so the reading should be applied on the tongue weight scale.
How to use a Weigh Safe Trailer Hitch to get the Tongue Weight
The weigh-safe ball mount is a type of trailer hitch that provides a convenient way of measuring the tongue weight of your trailer.
Like a tongue weight scale, this weighs safely. The ball mount has a gauge, and you can instantly hook up any trailers. The mount can be adjusted, and it comes in different sizes.
It is nice to have this handy, primarily if your trailer handles varying loads. With this, you can quickly check if you are within your limits.
Aside from that, it is used to tow light trailers, which generally don’t have a weight-distributing hitch. But, of course, it comes at a price that some may think they can do without.
Load Distribution in your Travel Trailer
When you decide to go on a trip using an RV, you don’t just load it up with all the stuff you need.
Aside from observing your trailer’s maximum capacity, it would help if you also allocated your cargo by putting about 60 percent of it on the front side of the axle and the remaining 40 percent on the rear side.
Being rear-heavy can be dangerous because encountering heavy winds during your road trip can cause your trailer to sway from side to side.
Speaking of trailer swaying, there are two types of mitigation. There are weight-distributing hitches with integrated sway control, and you can acquire those as an add-on purchase.
While they both aim to reduce the swing of your trailer for a smoother ride, they differ in how they deliver this feature.
You will notice that our top picks for weight-distributing hitches have sway control built into their design. A separate anti-sway device, Howey, is constructed using bar-style friction control.
They even come in two types: one that reduces swaying as it occurs and the other that works to prevent swaying completely.
So, which one is better—the integrated sway control or the separate add-on device? I would say the integrated one is the best option, and all the top picks for weight-distributing hitches have it.
It also does not have the limitations of an add-on anti-sway and is deemed more effective at reducing the sway if not preventing it.
The independent device controls the bolts of your trailer’s frame on one end and connects to a hitch ball mounted on the head at the opposite end.
As it is attached to the weight distribution mechanism of your trailer and its frame, this device can deliver tension to keep your trailer in line. A bar would extend and retract with your trailer’s movement.
When your trailer derails, the friction pads within the add-on device will come into contact with one another and produce resistance, reducing the swaying action.
Things to Remember About Anti-Sway as an Add-on Product
- Trailer compatibility – The bar style of add-on devices is unsuitable for trailers with a hydraulic braking system.
- Removal during reverse driving – To prevent damage to your trailer system, you must detach the bar-style sway control when backing up your trailer.
- Extra handling during inclement weather – When driving on slippery roads, whether snow-covered or wet with heavy rains, you need to adjust the device handle by going counterclockwise, removing all tension.
- Limited GTW – If your trailer weighs more than 6000 pounds, you will need two anti-sway devices by placing one on each side. This will also apply when your trailer is more than 26 feet in length.
Integrated 2-point Sway Control
This type of sway control works by fighting off the swaying as it happens. It creates resistance to prevent your trailer from going out of line. It usually relies on the downward force of hitch spring arms, producing friction on the brackets.
The 2-point systems are suitable for trailers with hydraulic brakes and are pretty easy to install. They can also stay on your system even when you back up your vehicle.
What’s more, compared to add-on sway control devices, you do not have to worry about the device’s tightening action.
4-point Sway Control
Aside from the added two points, these systems depend on their connection with the head, where the spring bars are in place to provide enough tension.
This counts for the first 2 points. The other 2 points refer to the end of the spring bars connected to your trailer’s frame. These also provide resistance and sufficient tension.
There are those with backup systems at play, where the anti-sway relies on friction between the spring bars and brackets to prevent the trailer from swaying.
Wrapping Up
Weight distribution hitches are a critical component in towing heavy loads. They function by evenly distributing the load across all vehicle axles, thus ensuring level towing.
The primary components of weight distribution hitches include the receiver hitch, spring bars, chains, and a sway control mechanism.
These elements work together to prevent the vehicle’s rear end from sagging and significantly improve steering and braking control, thereby enhancing overall safety during towing operations.
Weight distribution hitches come in two main types: round bar hitches, ideal for light loads, and trunnion hitches, designed for heavy-duty towing.
The selection of these hitches is typically based on the Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR), which considers both the weight of the tow vehicle and the trailer.
In addition to improved safety, one significant benefit of employing weight distribution hitches is enhanced fuel efficiency. The load is spread evenly across the vehicle’s axles, reducing drag and improving mileage.
Therefore, weight distribution hitches facilitate safe and efficient towing operations.
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